HELLO!
So, I've semi-been keeping a journal/blog/emails to my parents on my travels thus far, and haven't been able to publish them on my site till now, so this will be long (you've been warned), but is mostly all about my inter-railing adventures: Currently, today, July 6th I am in Athens, Greece, but more about that later...
I'll try and catch you up a bit, I haven't written in a while and sooooo many things have happened, I bought my ticket in Arnhem and went to the Open Air Museum (amaazing), its a museum where they had all traditional and original dutch houses, churches, schools, basically a small village outside you can visit, but is a museum. Was by far my favorite museum I've been to.
I also helped out with the Metallica metal concert, that was awesome. We sold programs of the day on lanyards, and then later posters. The morning went pretty well, the day lagged on, but night was awesome since thats when the better bands played and we had breaks to go watch them for a while.
But, here's about my trips:
Salzburg, Austria
I was in Salzburg, Austria only for one day on the 27th. I did the Sound of Music tour, we went pretty much everywhere that was used for filming in the movie except the hill in the opening scene as its far enough away the tour would've been all day instead of just the 4 hours it was. And tried to hit all the main sights.
In the morning I started walking around the city and right off saw an old archway and stairs going up (outside) and decided to follow them. Along the pathway there were life-size statues behind bars of the stations of the cross. The little staircase followed alongside a road where the statues were placed into the hillside a bit, and stone pew benches close by. It was a bit of a walk, but had a gorgeous view, and was overall very peaceful. At the top there was the crucifixion scene in sculpture/stone (not sure which), but more stairs to hike up to get to it. With all 3 being crucified and Mary and Peter as well. A little further up was a church connected with a monastery. You could go into the monastery gardens (which I did) it wasn't all that big, but had a great view over the Danube and city below. Walking alongside the monastery wall I came to a bust statue of Mozart, and two pathways on either side, I chose one and ended up (well already was, but more so) in the mountains on a trail. At different points they had information, but of course it all was in German and I couldn't read it. I just got the jist of info. About different birds on the mountain, and something about mining. I walked as far as I could, but had wasn't able to get to the very top. For better or worse it started raining, but since it was so humid and warm, it wasn't much of a bother, plus I hadn't had a shower in a day and a half, so it was a nice drizzle.
On my way back down I walked by the Danube, and onto Mozart's birth house and where he spent some of his adulthood. It was a semi-dull museum, I think they could've done more with it, and pricey, but it was worth getting to see one of Mozart's first violins on display. I had a lovely stale pretzel the Germans are so famous for (maybe not the stale part) and onto the tour.
There were some interesting things the guide told us, but mostly I already knew some of the facts since I'd done some research before I left. Like, they used two houses in filming, one house for the front, the other for the back. And, the real house is off limits, but we did see a tad of its roof. They didn't really escape crossing the mountains, but by train (we got to see the train station). Because of so many tourists the gazebo had to be moved from its private property by the back side of the house and onto a public gov. park property, and also locked because tourists were getting hurt prancing around inside of it. Oh, found out the oldest boy was a bit of a snob, apparently in the last scene where they're crossing the mountains (and he has the youngest daughter on his shoulders) after filming he said something like 'i'll never carry that fat kid again'. Oh also that the scene where they all fall in the water wasn't staged, but was on accident and they decided to keep it because the youngest girl was afraid to get back in the boat.
Budape-sh-t, Hungary
Day 1:
For the last four days I've been in Hungary, for two of those days, Budapest, the other two a town north of Budapest (40 min. train ride) in Szentendre. Budapest was very interesting, like no where I've been before, but of course I've only been to western Europe and select states in the U.S. The transportation was very easy to use, I purchased a 3 day travel ticket and could use trams, buses, and the metro. Ah, the money, so in Hungary they use forints (HUF) as currency...roughly translates 280 forints to 1 Euro. Very confusing for me, especially since the numbers are so high it tends to give the illusion everything is so expensive, when it's not. I had budgeted to be able to spend 30 euros a day...but in Hungary I didn't have to, while Austria I went over.
Anyway, sites, so, I met my friend, Anna (who was also an exchange student at Radboud University in Nijmegen the first semester) at the train station where her and her fiancé took me to my hostel and then on to some sightseeing. We went up to Castle Hill- where the Castle remains are, and new buildings/a community was built. There you can find the National Museum, the Library, and much more. Gorgeous view of the Danube. All the days I was in Hungary it was very hot and humid, and rainy. The Danube was so flooded that the roads closest to it had to be shut down. We then went to the Parliament Building, saw St. Stephen's Basilica—where you can also see on display St. Stephen's hand preserved, well, I guess not preserved, but as he is a saint, miraculously preserved I guess you could say. Gorgeous church, definitely one of my top two favorites I've been to this year (the other was in Bergamo, Italy in the old city).We walked up to a castle today, all around the city. I'm amazed at how humid it is here!!! It's begun & stopped raining 4 times, 2x we were able to wait it out. No one speaks any english here. Very different from anywhere I've gone, I'm not able to make out any words what-so-ever. There's a road next to the Danube that is flooded on both sides. Crazy. It's funny we were by the Parliament building (GORGEOUS) and all the tourists were taking pictures by the flooded road instead of the gov. building :). Tried a very hungarian dessert, have no idea its name. But its a pastry that's wrapped around a piece of wood (long and round) and heated with cinnamon sugar, coconut, nuts, plain, etc. I tried the nuts and cinnamon sugar. Yum. The cinnamon sugar one tasted like, well, cinnamon rolls, just not as gooey. Anna's fiance was a history student and so knows all about hungarian history-very good tour guides!
Had my first shower in two 1/2 days...feel great now. I'm hungry but don't want to leave (feet are killing me & just want to sleep) so i think ill just have some snacks i have in the hostel. Oh, hostel is in an apt. building, didnt even have a sign outside, i never wouldve found it without Anna, esp. since no one speaks english. But its nice, has a living room, free wifi for my laptop, towels & sheets. No breakfast, but a bakery just down the road.
Her parents dont speak any english. Her dad picked us up in his car, was very kind, carried my bags for me, well and her fiance too. Anna translated for us.
I took as many pictures as I could before my battery ran out (wasn't able to charge it this morning or last night of course). But, some places I'll revisit tomorrow anyway--more to do at them. So tomorrow i have by myself & then i meet anna at 3:30 on tuesday to meet to go back to her village for two nights. Went to the train station & didn't have to reserve a seat, so travel plan up till I get to Zagreb is correct.
Hungary is like no where I've been before. Reminds me a little of Milan--very big city, block buildings, but also small old town centers. But--very different too.
Day 2:
The second day in Budapest I had to myself and went back to some of the same sites, also visiting the Synagogue—this area is a haven for Jews in Hungary as I've been told it was a somewhat safer place to be than the rest of Europe, which is why now in Budapest there is a thriving Jewish Quarter. Very beautiful inside, there's also a cemetery on the grounds, and a Jewish History Museum (was closed when I got there). I also climbed the Citadell where there was a church in a cave (very refreshing after a hot humid hike). The third day I visited the Opera House, the Market (in a building), and the House of Terror (where the secret police were stationed). And met with Anna to take a train back to her town Szentendre for two days. Neither of Anna's parents spoke English, besides her mom knowing a few words (good, house, hungry, good night, okay...you get the idea). So Anna worked as a translator the last couple of days. While Budapest was a nice city, most of the buildings were in bad need of repair (Anna used the word dirty, but it really wasn't dirty, just looked—well, old & used.) and there was quite a bit of construction, these are also some reasons Anna wasn't so proud of the city, those and the Soviet built buildings that are a not-so-nice reminder of the past.
Szentendre, Hungary
Day 1:
But I loved Szentendre. It's a small town set in the mountains (forest), has the Danube along the main street, small houses, but large enough you wouldn't know everyone in the town. My favorite part though was probably the food. I love Hungarian food, they seem to utilize much more spices than we do and using somewhat simple ingredients can make a delicious meal. The first day, Anna and I walked around the town a little bit, seeing tennis courts flooded by the Danube, and all the cute old little streets.
Day 2:
The second day we did the same, but later on in the day went by car with her mom and dad to two other nearby towns. The mountains that are close to Szentendre are considered sacred to the Buddhists, since Hungary is the 'heart' of Europe, literally in the middle, and these trees are in the middle of the earth, so i'm told. Anna and her parents don't really feel like they're all that holy ;) So we went and climbed part way up to a castle, and a tower. The tower was used to keep a man in line for the throne of King after he was blinded, as blind men could not be Kings. We also saw the Royal Palace (ruins) and area where nobles lived. The second town we hiked (really, hiked) up to a Basilica, that is the Head of the Roman Catholic Church in Hungary. Imagine my surprise as we hike up the steps and right in front see a bus from the Netherlands and a Dutch tour going on. No one else in sight but us and the Dutch. I got to take a peek inside, but since Anna and I were both wearing short sleeves and shorts, Anna's mom didn't think it was a good idea to go inside. In eastern europe, it's not proper to go inside a church, temple, monastery, whatever without covering your arms and legs. The Basilica was HUGE, massive. The columns alone were breathtaking. The view from the basilica was of the Danube separating Hungary from Slovakia. While I didn't cross the bridge into Slovakia, I did have a peek over from the hill top. The relationship between Hungary and Slovakia was interesting to hear about. They don't really like each other, well, hate might be more accurate, but next to the Basilica is a very large religious statue, lit up, that is supposed to be big enough for the Slovakian people to see (as I'm told most consider themselves Hungarian, anyway the people that close to Hungary) and is a sign of hope. There's also a Hungarian flag next to the statue, as a sort of passive protest against the government.
Currently writing, I am on a train somewhere between Koprivnica and Dugo Selo on my way to Zagreb, Croatia. According to the internet I should have arrived one hour ago, but earlier in the day our train broke down and we had to wait while people came to fix it. Luckily we didn't have to wait too long, maybe a half hour or so, but it also took a while when we were stopped crossing the border to show our passports 2x (and I got a stamp!!!!) and of course our tickets, and custom people came through. All went smoothly, but it did take a long while.
So, I'm anxiously awaiting arriving in Zagreb as I only have this half a day and tomorrow until I leave in the evening to head onto Athens, Greece!
Zagreb, Croatia
Day 1:
Yesterday I walked around the town, saw the Cathedral and main sights. I walked into another Church and it was beginning to fill up so I decided to stay and see what was going on. The church was getting pretty full, and soon whoever was in front ( I couldn't see them) began chanting and everyone knelt down. Now, just knowing this was a wednesday at 5 pm, I should've known what was going on, but it took me a long while. Pretty much all Catholic masses, or anything really are the same anywhere you go, and here, in Croatia, the people were chanting in latin part of the time. So, I was trying to pick up on clues what was going on, it took until the end of the second decade for me to realize it was a rosary prayer service. I don't know why it took me that long, I knew it definitely wasn't a mass...
Yesterday for some reason I had it in my head I wanted to go to a particular part of the city (actually outside of the city, up in the hills), for some reason I was thinking I had read it was a good place to see a nice view of the city. Well, when I began getting more and more tired from walking, and it was beginning to look more and more like a residential neighborhood I decided it would be best to take a look at the map just to make sure I was on the right track. Well, as you can probably guess, there really was nothing where I supposedly wanted to go, I must've mixed up some names. That's the most difficult part I think with traveling is if you're someplace with a different language it's easy to see how you can mix up Medvedgradska and Medvescak street (utca) names, for example. But, it turned out okay, as there was a cemetery relatively close to where I thought I wanted to go and was also on my list of sights to see. And wow, it was a very long hike up, but very worth it. It was gorgeous. Supposedly its one of the most beautiful cemeterys in Europe. Especially being from the U.S. I think it's really something different to see European cemeterys. Each one is so unique and different. It was a huge area, and I didn't even get to half of it before my feet were beat and I had to shi shi so bad I couldn't hardly walk anymore. I did find a cafe and took a tram back down to the train station close to where I was staying.
Day 2:
Today was my last day in Zagreb, Croatia. This heat and humidity definitely effects how long I stay out and tour the city. I left the hostel this morning at 9:30am and was back at 4pm, which normally would be a pretty good time, but since it stays lighter later at night, I'm able to stay out usually until 8pm or so. Today I went up to a great lookout of the city, a famous Cathedral, a tower (Lotrščak tower) that promptly at 12pm spit out an extremely loud cannon, and the spot where the only gate preserved from the Middle Ages burned down in the 18th century, the only thing to survive the fire was an icon of the Virgin Mary that is still in that spot (Karmenita vrata). And so, she is the patron saint of Zagreb. I also took a tram out to the river Sava, but it didn't seem all that impressive to me, so I just followed the tram back again into the city. Today is the only day in a week that hasn't rained, and I'm very grateful as it's my 21st birthday today!!
I haven't eaten out at all in Croatia as it seems to be expensive (well, for a college interrail student), and grocery stores just seem to be the smarter way to do it, plus I love seeing the different kinds of foods in shops. So, the currency here is the Kuna, and I've found sardines in cans, like back in the U.S., but these are in a sauce (tomato-ish) with cooked paprika, onions, etc. mixed in. These are my new favorite, and I've bought a few of them so I can also have in Greece and when I travel back to the NL. They cost 9 kuna...7 kuna = 1 euro, and 1 euro= 1.50$ ish. Fabulous deal I think. Last night with my sardines (so glad to have something besides peanut butter thats quick, easy, and semi-healthy) I bought some bread, yogurt, and what I thought was either a small block of cheese, or butter. So, I didn't even think about taking a closer look at it (as it was in the butter/cheese section), but when I got it back to the hostel I tried a little bit and learned it was neither of those things. I still have no idea what it was, it was grayish and tasted bitter, it had pictures of pastries on the outside. Huuuhh.
Currently I'm sitting in the hostel lobby waiting till around 10pm when I'll head to the train station and catch my train for first Beograd (Serbia), then to Greece (stops in Thessaloniki before Athenes), it's friday night, and I will arrive in Athenes on sunday morning. Yuck. And at 5:40am nonetheless. Not sure what to do about that because I can't check into the hostel until 11am, and in the rest of Europe anyway nothing is open till 8 am ish anyway...but i'll figure it out. I'll continue to write, and hopefully be able to post something again soon.